🔗 Share this article Each Chef Ought to Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Secures Fourth on List of London’s Best Dining Destinations. When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London. A Surprise Honour The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors completely surprised. “I’m utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list. A Character of Simplicity This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner. A Signature Dish: Tantuni Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency. The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside. It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony. Beyond the Basic Tantuni Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”. For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste. Outranking the Stars Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations. While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price. The Ethos of Heart It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner. “I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.” This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”. The Journey of Hard Work Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son. Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication. “My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares. A Accomplishment for the People This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.